happy November!

So, if there are any if you who are still reading this since I haven't updated in over a month, I would firstly like to say, all is well! I have found a very sweet spot located in Tauranga, New Zealand. It's really an amazing town. There's so much activity here it's unreal. I worked my way into finding an amazing living location at the end of a point, and found a job waitressing at a swanky NZ european style cafe as a waitress. Living in Tauranga has been and will continue to be amazing. More to come on that...

Since I left Taupo after the theft of my car, I took a trip further down south on the North island to Wellington. On the way, I camped at a few wonderful places, one of which was right by a trailhead that started with New Zealand's longest swing bridge; 90 meters long! Nothing too exciting happened at my camp spots, and soon I was in Wellington, the capitol of NZ. They don't call it "the windy city" for nothin' I'll tell ya that. The entire time I was there it was blowing over 30 knots. No wonder so many great sailors come from NZ. I went to a soccer, (or football) game while I was there. The NZ All Whites versus the Sydney Rabbitoes. NZ won and it was quite a boozey evening. While I was in the windy city, I had to make a stop at the largest museum in NZ. I could have spent the entire 4 days I was there at the museum, but instead I spent half the day wandering the Maori exhibits and admiring their culture and craft; as well as checking out the history of European immigration to this lovely island. After Wellington, it was only a 7 hour drive back North to Tauranga where I am residing now.

Tauranga has proven itself to me to be a place I could envision myself for years. Mt. Maunganui is part of the landscape of this town of 100,000 residents (the 5th largest in NZ and some people think it's way too big to live in. I think moving to the states is definitely not an option for these people) and it's an old volcano at the end of the peninsula that creates shelter for the bay of Tauranga. "The mount" as locals call it, provides an excellent work out track, as well as shelter from the wind for surfers, a jumping point for paragliders, and (for me especially) a kick ass climbing spot. The mount will be my new stomping ground and a great place to meet many other traveling climbers. I have already met a German, a Kiwi, and an Englishman from London there. I wish I had pictures to share with everyone, but alas, I must wait until ebay sends me my new charger for my camera since my old one was stolen in the robbery. The beach here is really quite spectacular and I want to show it's beauty off with some snap shots.

I am adjusting so well to living here in NZ and I am so excited for things to come. Though Kiwis really don't celebrate Halloween night at all, my All Hallow's Eve was spent with two dear Kiwi friends (Zac & Kate) I met in Seattle, and the rest of my Yankee friends on the beach fire spinning and hula hooping on the beach. Oh and I now have a whole colony of Americans living with me. Gus and Abe just got here and we're living it up! Can't wait for even more of my friends to get here. We have some amazing hiking planned in our near future, and now that I have some stability in my life (aka a constant power source for my laptop and wifi access) I will be able to update much more frequently. 

I am feeling so elated here and so grateful to have my wonderful family back home who will send me things from the states when I get robbed, however the thing I really wish they could send me is themselves. I think of everyone at home so much and miss you all. I hope you all had a wonderful Halloween!

Much love.

bittersweet

It's been way too long since I've updated y'all on my ridiculous travels and needless to say, lots has happened. After spending some time in Auckland sorting out visa problems, I was so ready to leave the city. My first stop out of Auckland was the Auckland botanical gardens, before heading off to the Coromandel Peninsula. In the botanical gardens, I had my first encounter with an extremely common, and quite hilarious bird called a Tui (also the name of a very popular and quite tasty beer). The Tui is very talkative and instead of trying to describe their complicated noises, here is a video to enjoy and laugh at; which I have more times than I would like to admit. 

After enjoying the wonderful flowers and comical wildlife, it was off to the beautiful Coromandel Peninsula. Directly to the East of Auckland, the Coromandel was a quick escape back to the beaches. 

It reminded me a lot of the Washington and Oregon coast; with it's awesome sea stacks and tall cliffs. The only thing the Coromandel has on the NW beaches is the awesome blue color of the water.

After avoiding car camping for a few days, I finally arrived in Wharepapa South. An extremely small town consisting of a school, a domain (park with rugby field) and Bryce's climbing center. The best part of it, it's smack dab in the middle of copious amounts of rock climbing. Some crags right in the middle of fields of cows (Froggat & Sheridan) and the other (Waipapa) in the fern filled forest. I spent about two weeks car camping in the school and enjoying wonderful days full of rock climbing. After awhile, I decided to move on to Taupo. 

Taupo...the city that refuses to let me leave. I got into town late afternoon, grabbed some beer, and after hearing about some free hot springs close to town, I headed straight there. I was feeling great after soaking for about 45 minutes in the killer hot water stream, when I came back to find my little chariot was broken into. All my bags were stolen, passport, wallet, you name it. They even took my food bag with new avocados in it! Bastards. I ran off to the Taupo Police station. This is where I met Sergeant Mark Robertson; policeman extraordinaire. After taking down the report, he sent me back to his house to stay with his wonderful caring family who welcomed me with open arms. In the weeks since the theft, I got my stolen rock climbing gear back, and the Taupo police caught the culprit, but I have yet to get my passport and backpack back. But I'm hopeful and it'll just take time.  The Robertsons have been the most amazing hosts and I'm almost glad I was robbed because that meant that I got to meet and stay with them.

Tomorrow it's off to Napier after I talk to a locksmith. Damn car key broke off in the ignition. So many problems to deal with, but hey! Who said traveling was easy? 

I'm missing everyone at home right now very much. I especially wish I could watch the Seahawks games here. Can't wait until I have internet so I can stream them. Missing and thinking of everyone! Love you all,

on the road to Wharepapa South. I thought this only happened in movies!

Much love.

which came first; the kiwi, the kiwi, or the kiwi?

After two weeks spent upside down, five hours behind my hometown of Seattle, yet a day ahead, I still can't answer that question. Was it the kiwi fruit, the kiwi bird, or the kiwi nationality? Doesn't matter much to me though. It's true, the kiwis (fruit) seem to be 100 times better in kiwiland than they are back home. I have yet to see a kiwi bird, but I plan on seeing one as soon as possible. I'm still waiting around to hear back from the New Zealand immigration office to see if they want to give me a working holiday visa. Shouldn't be a problem, but since I arrived a little earlier than expected, they probably had to do some extra paperwork on me.

the needle in the middle of Auckland; copy cats!

In other news, I am now a proud owner of a Mitsubishi Chariot. It's going to be my home for a bit. I got a for a killer deal and since I'll be living out of it, mostly for free, it'll pay for itself in a few weeks because I would've had to pay hostel bills. It does lack a shower, which would be nice for when I start going to interviews, but I'm sure I'll manage to find one somewhere.

Auckland is a wonderful city, but now that I'm in New Zealand finally, I'm really starting to get antsy. I want to get out and start exploring as soon as possible. Waiting to hear back from jobs in unnerving as I definitely need to start making money. Kiwiland is wonderful, and wonderfully expensive! Thank goodness one Kiwi dollar is 80 US cents; gotta love that exchange rate. I'm hoping for a barista position at a Cafe somewhere downtown. We'll see. As soon as I know though, I'm heading to a climbing area called Wharepapa (pronounced Fa-ray-pa-pa; weird right? 'Wh' = 'F' in NZ I suppose) and I'll post up there for a bit and get my fingers on some rock.

Went for a little hike to the top of Mt. Eden for sunset. It's the tallest place in Auckland and it's an inactive volcano. I didn't realize how beautiful the surrounding area is, absolutely gorgeous. Looking Southwest you can see the Tasman Sea and looking Northeast the Pacific, all from one spot. Pretty neat.

just me an my chariot on Mt Eden

As for tonight, well it's Saturday here, and for most of you it's still Friday so party on friends! Tonight there's a big Rugby tournament in Auckland, the NZ All Blacks vs. the Australian Wallabes. Rugby is really big here, they take it almost as seriously as I take American Football. Since I doubt they're going to show any Seahawks games at any bar, I guess I have to get used to rugby and get all rowdy with the kiwis. Should be just fine I think. Though they don't have Beast Mode....

Love and miss you all!

Much love

kiwiland

Hello all! Ok, so I have a lot of explaining to do. First off though, I want to tell some more stories from French Polynesia. When I last left off, I had just brought you all on my journey to Huahine. Huahine was perhaps my favorite place in the Society Islands. We were in an anchorage with many other boats in about 15 feet of clear blue water with sandy bottom; coral heads and the fishies living in them were easily visible.

the anchorage

 The first order of business was, of course, find a store at which to buy beer. We couldn't believe our luck when we walked into the store; it was huge! More like a regular supermarket, and much more decently priced. Soon, after obtaining our necessities, we heard rumor of a bar on the waterfront by the quay where the happy hour was cheap. We found ourselves amidst many other cruisers and enjoyed the evening immensely watching the sun go down and enjoying cold Hinano on tap. I even saw a friend that I met on Moorea!

just another sunset in paradise

John from Moorea

           

nom

 I didn't enjoy Huahine solely for the cheap booze though. The next few days were full of snorkeling, and surfing (by the boys not by me; the reef break is much too dangerous for a beginner, but I heard it was quite epic and I intend to return someday when I'm a pro-surfer...right). We also made a point of putting the spear gun and sling to use and getting some yummy squirrel fish for dinner. I myself didn't get any fish; my hunter instinct didn't really kick in, not to mention I lost a flipper during one windy night in Moorea, so that made things a little difficult. The boys got a few fish though, more and more each night. Taylor, Connor and Mat from s/v Gypsy Blues got a grand total of 15 fish over three days! They weren't the biggest, but that's really a huge achievement because those fish are quite quick to dive back into their coral homes when we got close.

mmmm fish guts

We decided to get off the boat the next day and go walk around the island a bit. There are quite a few interesting archaeological sites on Huahine. There are about twenty ancient Polynesian ruins that are called Marae; used for many important ceremonies and events; including human sacrifices and human dinners. Damn cannibals. They don't look like much in the pictures, but they were actually quite interesting. 

These sites were quite a few kilometers away from the quay where we parked the dinghy, so Mat, Taylor, Connor and I had to hitchhike to them. We got separated during the hitching process, so Connor and I wandered amidst the Marae, and soon found ourselves at a locals house that sold ice cream out of their house next to their art gallery. Naturally, both of us having big sweet tooths, we had to stop and we enjoyed cookies and cream with a local guy name He'are. We were soon invited to a bbq at his house the next night with his American girlfriend and some of their French and Polynesian friends.

if you're going to be eaten, I suppose there are worst places for it to happen

a marae Connor and I found on a short hike

 An invitation to a bbq seems to be a pretty thing to get when you're cruising around these islands. We came back the next night with nine freshly speared squirrel fish, a large fruit salad, and fresh baked cookies (by yours truly). We enjoyed a night with hew friends in He'are's self built home, attempting to play a traditional Polynesian instrument made from a tree trunk, drinking Hinano, and bbqing fish. Pretty enjoyable.

bbq made from coconut husks

ice cream shop aka He'are's house

fish cleaning

Connor being musical

approaching Raiate'a

Soon we were off to Raiatea. Only a half day sail away. We were there for two days, but it wasn't super exciting so we left for Taha'a after we searched in vain to find one of the world's rarest flowers. In Taha'a we did some more walking around and general hanging out, before we found a beautiful place to snorkel where I proceeded to snorkel with one flipper. Not the easiest thing to do when you're inches above pokey sea urchin, but I made it work.

I'm convinced this is the motu Captain Jack Sparrow was stranded on

In Taha'a, the decision was made to head back to Raiatea where I could get off the boat. I hopped on a flight to Papeete, where I stayed for two nights at Chez Fifi, a wonderful hostel right by the airport.

breakfast table & lounge at Chez Fifi

last Tahitian sunset...for now

I hopped on another flight, and here I am now, in Auckland! Kiwiland! I couldn't be more excited. Though it's still winter here...my wardrobe wasn't really ready to be here this early, but it's ok. It feels more like a Seattle Autumn than a winter so I think I can handle it.

Au revoir Tahiti

Hello everyone! It's been awhile since I've posted and much has happened. I have to keep this short as I'm in downtown Papeete, and paying to use the internet. I'm back in Papeete because a decision was made that I get off the boat. I got to do some amazing traveling and I consider myself extremely lucky. Now I'm booked on a flight for New Zealand at 7:30 am on the 11th! A little earlier than expected; nonetheless I'm wicked excited to get things started in Kiwiland! I just wish I had brought some warmer clothing as it'll still be winter when I get there. I don't think my tropical wardrobe will be much help. Oh well, on to the next part of the adventure! But first...gotta find a job. Wish me luck!

this doesn't suck

Ardea has finally left Mo'orea and we have moved onto Huahine! It was hard to say goodbye to Mo'orea and the awesome people I met there, but we ended up leaving at the same time as a bunch of other boats that we have recently made friends with. Young friends too which I'm finding to be a rarity in this cruising world. 

The last two days on Mo'orea were filled with some boat work, a nice walk through the middle of the island to the agricultural school, where I tasted the best ice cream I've ever had. Plus I finally got to do something I'd been wanting to do since I arrived; I rented a bicycle for the day and pedaled my way around the island. I did this by myself as the rest of the cruisers opted to go climb Mount Mouoputa; another gorgeous and impressive looking mountain with a hole in it. You can see in the picture (that I'll upload soon, internet is not so good on Huahine) that there's a lady facing upward, her hair coming down on the right, and her chin on the left. Legend has it that she was a king's wife, and she had an affair so he put her up there for eternity. Believable...I guess. 

sunrise watch

 I wanted to climb it as well, but it was my last day on Mo'orea and renting a bike by myself was refreshing. It's nice to get some time to yourself I'm finding; it doesn't happen very often on a 31 foot boat.  So I set off on the last day with my little fixie beach cruiser with a basket, thank goodness there aren't any big hills on Mo'orea. Except one, but it had the most gorgeous view so it was totally worth it.

 I ran into Taylor on his walk back from the hike and we went off looking for a waterfall nearby. We found it, but couldn't get to it as we lost our way on the jungly trail, but we found some bananas! Free food! Pretty awesome. 

Leaving Moorea

We left Mo'orea on July 26th around 3 PM. The passage was only 90 miles, so we arrived in Huahine (hoo-ah-hee-nee) in less than 24 hours. I got my first experience with watches, and sea sickness. The wind was blowing 15-20 knots the whole night, another reason we got to Huahine so quickly. Unfortunately though, the seas were at a constant 6-8 foot swell. Lots of rocking back and forth...turns out I get seasick. Luckily though, I got the 4:30-7:30 am watch which meant sunrise. Absolutely gorgeous. Ardea is in a beautiful anchorage right now surrounded by friends. Life is good, and in Taylor's words "this doesn't suck."

Huahine!

Much love.

jungle slog

Just to reconfirm, Ardea is, yes, still anchored in Cook's bay. I can't believe I've almost been here for almost a full month already! Connor is finally back from his family reunion and on his beautiful boat, and we're having a great time. Yesterday, I experienced my first real physical exertion since I've arrived in the Pacific islands; we climbed the tallest peak on Mo'orea: Rotui (pronounced ro-too-eeeee).

the summit

Rotui isn't that impressive when you compare it to the other jagged peaks jetting out of this wonderful island, but it most certainly has the best views that I've seen so far. We started the day early, at 5:30 and met up with other cruisers from boats Evergreen, Vulcan Spirit, and Barfly. Our team of five Americans, one Scot, one Brit, and one man from Poland found the trailhead by 7:15 and started the arduous day hike. It was a fun hike, lots of elevation gain quickly, and a verrrry spooky ridge climb to the summit. It was so spooky because on either side was a long drop, and the footing on the ridge was covered with ferns so it was hard to see, not to mention loose ground that could (and did) fall out from underneath you. It was a slog to the top once we got to the ridge, it was my first experience doing a tropical jungle climb. Other than that, it was a mere 3.5 hour walk to the top. I'd rate the ridge as probably a 5.3 climb, just because it was rather dangerous. Despite one fall, everyone made it out very safe and happy, but thirsty. Though it was quite the bushwhack so we all definitely came out with scratches. It was a very very satisfying day though, as I've been itching to get out there and do what I do best; be in the mountains. 

classic

When we all got back, we raced to the store for cold Hinano and Pamplemousse juice; a fruit similar to a grapefruit, but so much tastier. Almost like a hybrid of lime and grapefruit, but sweeter. 

Looks like we'll be heading out in a couple of days here to Huahini; our next stop. I'm very homesick at the moment, missing every one of my family and friends, but still having a blast! I love and miss you all so much!

Ooooooo-wheeee! Rotui!

just gettin' it in in the South Pacific

Much love

puff, puff...drag?

The last two days spent on Ardea in Cook’s bay have proven to be equally interesting, but in very different ways. Two nights ago, I said goodbye to Steve, the friend who we originally met as crew from Spirit Guide. Taylor and I had spent many evenings with him at the hotel Bali Hai, where we tie up Tuerto; the toughest dinghy around. We all enjoyed hours together drinking beers, wines, and enjoying delicious dinners of cheese, fruit and numerous pâtés, (we’re so French) while “cockroaching” off a bungalow of Bali Hai’s. The term cockroaching was newly introduced to me by Steve, and I embrace it wholeheartedly. It means using something that isn’t yours, but not necessarily stealing. We’ve spent four nights enjoying dinner and cocktails on the deck of a bungalow that’s under construction; there’s no one in it, so we just take advantage of it. So after a final night of cockroaching with Steve, whose quote of the night was “I think the thing we should really concentrate on tonight, is drinking”, we were all geared up for a final night of pétanque, only to get to the arena and find it dark and empty. We were all super disappointed but then made up for it by going to a nearby restaurant and enjoying more wine and hors d’oeuvres. When the rain started pouring down, we knew it was time to return to Ardea. We gave Steve a final hug goodbye and promised to keep in touch. He was truly a wonderful friend and I had such a great time with him. He's going to be missed for sure. We were going to return super early the next morning to give him one of Ardea’s famous beer coozey’s, but that night became so windy, we hardly got any sleep because of paranoia of running aground of dragging anchor. Sorry Steve! We’ll get one to you somehow!

Last night...well that’s a whole different story and that’s where the title of this post comes from. No Mom, it’s not a marijuana reference. The wind in Cook’s bay has increased so much over the past few days, and the real problem is that it’s not consistent. Huge puffs come through, sometimes at 20-25 knots causing little Ardea to spin in circles. Last night was the puffiest of all, and it was officially my first stressful night aboard. I knew it was going to happen sooner or later. After making a decision to re-anchor around dusk because a fellow cruiser had anchored way way too close for comfort, we started to regret this decision. Around 7 pm, the wind really started to pick up and we had already given up our solid anchor for a new one, and we were dragging. This means that our anchor was dragging beneath us and we weren’t stationary; something very unnerving when you’re 100 feet from shore and even closer to other cruisers. A very stressful night ensued with minimal sleep; Taylor and I were both poking our heads out to check our position. Not my choice way to spend Bastille Day, but hey, I still can’t complain. I expect more stressful nights aboard Ardea, but I certainly don’t look forward to them... 

All is well though! Even though we continue today to spin in circles. 

Happy Birthday to my wonderful friend Gus! May your day be filled with Salmon and Rainier!

Much love 

just call me rasta

As most of you know, I have been working on a set of my very own dreadlocks. They are really coming along, the salt water and sea air really makes them tighten up. Stephie you would be so proud! I find it really amusing that one of my nicknames from home has also become a nickname here; Rasta. At the pétanque parties I get called Rasta at least ten times because of my hair, and it makes me miss my friends a lot. Something about my hair in dreadlocks makes the locals talk to me about Bob Marley, make love not war,  and other rasta related topics, while giving me the hang loose sign, which I find highly entertaining. Every time I walk past the pétanque arena I hear "rastaaaaaaaa!" and I give a wave and hang loose.

new friends

the infamous pétanque arena and players

Yesterday was a wonderful day that I have been looking forward to since getting to Mo'orea; I finally got to travel out to the beautiful beach at Opunohu bay and spend some quality time slack lining, drinking a local fruit cocktail "Tahiti Drink" and snorkeling. Don't get me wrong, staying in Paopao and hanging with the locals has been wonderful, and working on Ardea, giving her a fresh coat of varnish has been...not as wonderful, but hey! Can't really complain can I?

la plage

Slack lining was very entertaining, as I kind of blanked on how to set it up, but we managed somehow and soon we were getting strange regards from onlookers. Mostly children. They would come over and watch me try and mostly fail to walk across the line; I tried over and over to get them to join us but I think they were too embarrassed to give it a go. Soon some fellow cruiser friends on Bombaleíro kayaked from their boat to where I was posted up and gave it a go as well. The snorkeling was fun, nothing extraordinary as Opunohu bay is very heavily traveled, but there were some cute little fishies out there, no Nemo's or grumpy clown fish though. 

cute little guy

The landscape here in Cook's bay gives me itchy fingers; meaning that my fingers are itching to get on the huge walls and rock faces that make me want to go rock climbing so badly, especially after having spent such a kick ass week at Smith Rock with great friends. Hey Jeff, someday you can lead trad here and we can all go up after you! 

look at those walls just waiting for the first send!

But for now, I suppose I'll just kick back and enjoy this wonderful island.

Much love. jah mon. Rasta.

we get around

So Ardea is still anchored in Cook's Bay in Mo'orea, and she'll be there until the 18th or so when el capitán Connor returns from his trip back home in the states. I can't say that I mind staying in one anchorage for so long though, it has really proven to be a blessing. I have met so many new friends here in Cook's bay that I'm sure leaving will be hard.

Taylor and I went back to Tama tattoo, the shop where he got his wonderful piece of art, to give the artist a few beers and to show him the music of Sound Tribe Sector 9, which is now permanently represented on Taylor's back. There, we ran into another cruiser named Steve who's on s/v Sprit Guide; a 53' Amel.  Steve was getting a tattoo done as well,  and since I was there, he had me translate for him so that he could get exactly what he wanted: a shark inside a turtle representing the fact that he is now a shellback (he's traveled across the equator). We left him to get his painful tattoo and ended up meeting back up with him at the dinghy dock with his captain, Captain Billy. We got some beers with them both and captain Billy convinced us to come over to Spirit Guide the next day for some "pain killers." Don't worry y'all, I'm not doing heavy drugs. A pain killer is a type of drink, usually made in the Caribbean. Ingredient are: Pusser's rum, pineapple juice, coconut milk, mango juice and to top it off, freshly ground  nutmeg. Captain Billy made them stiff and we quickly went through a whole bottle of rum. He's very good at convincing, and he had us come back the following day to do some work for him since he's heading to the island of Ra'iatea to put the boat on the hard. We happily obliged and did a half days work for him, and found ourselves 100 american dollars richer. Woo! Enough to pay for beer for the next week. I'm seriously missing Rainier right now. Hey Gus, send me some!

Last night we took Steve over to the infamous Pétanque arena. Walking in my warning words were "you're going to be exhausted by the end of the night." I said this because I've been to the Pétanque party three times now and each time, I find myself inundated by the locals who speak minimal if any english, and french with a tahitian accent. Speaking French, I get exhausted trying to hold a conversation with the wonderful people of Mo'orea, I can only imagine what it's like for my friends who don't speak French. For me, it's entertaining to say the least...

what a wonderful culture

I've officially been in French Polynesia for more than a week now, and it's amazing. We're still in Mo'orea, anchored in Cook's bay, which is a dream. The scenery here is beautiful, even though one bay over in Opunohu bay is better. Though I think we choose to stay here because of the locals. Two nights ago, I was walking back from the store with fresh baguettes and more Hinano, and a local waved me down. He lives right on the water, and he said he had seen us driving in our dinghy back and forth from the boat to shore, and he wanted to invite us over for a barbeque! This is the one thing about this land that I don't think I'll ever get enough of; the wonderful giving locals. He didn't even know my name before I was invited over to his house to break bread with him and his family. Taylor and I showed up a few hours later (after Taylor's tattoo was finished) with Hinano in tow. The man I met, AJ told us that we were going to first drive to a nearby resort before starting up the bbq, so we accompanied him and his friends John and Frank (real authentic Tahitian names) to the Mo'orea Pearl Resort; a hotel right on the water, with exclusive amenities. We were blown away and a little awkward, we knew this place was going to be expensive. A few drinks in, AJ informed us that they were paying for everything. After some objection, and arguing about it, we consented. He told us not to worry about it, one of his joys in life is showing and sharing the Tahitian culture which means meeting tourists and cruisers and taking them out. Can't say no to that right?

Unfortunately as soon as we were finishing up our last drink and heading back to AJ's house, the monsoon started. I'm not talking Seattle rain, I'm talking serious soak you to the core downpour. AJ's house is a tree house that he constructed himself, one of the coolest houses I've ever seen. Way simple, and wonderful with a spiral staircase and typical roof made of palm leaves. Though a wonderful place to hang out on a sunny day, the house was inadequate for an inside bbq, as most houses are. We were forced to return to the boat for our own tuna melts and we took a rain check (literally) with AJ.

Taylor recently got a tattoo from a local artist named Tama. A very chill cool dude with dreadlocks and a heavy Tahitian accent. Though he barely spoke any English, Taylor managed to communicate very well his needs and wants for his tattoo.

I hope everyone back at home had a wonderful fourth of July! I felt a little sting in my heart when I realized this is my second fourth of July in a French territory; very un-American of me. Can't complain too much though, I am in a tropical paradise. Today it's off for some drinks called "Pain Killers" on a fellow cruisers boat. Hopefully I'll be able to sneak into the nearby hotel for a shower. I've been here for more than a week without showering. I apologize as I'm sure you can all smell me from home. Happy 37th Anniversary to my parents too! Much love.